Three years ago Tiffany and I landed in Yaoundé on December 13, 2007 to begin our water and health ministry in Banyo, Cameroon, where we spent the next twelve months of 2008 installing wells, conducting health clinics, introducing appropriate technologies and seeking ways to build bridges to sharing our faith in word and deed. I now find myself aboard a Boeing 737 about to land once again on the exact same day as our previous visit, which was not planned but an interesting coincidence. At least fifteen months of ministry lie ahead of us as we transition back to African living and pick up where we left off at the end of our previous stay.
As is often the case, this journal entry is about the adventures that always await us while traveling abroad. If half the fun is getting there, then the other half must be the pain of getting there! This particular return has had its own unique set of challenges. I can comfortably write you now from our final leg of the trip knowing we will at least land at our destination. Unfortunately I can’t say the same for our suitcases. The final mystery still awaits us; will our bags make it to their final destination, and will they get through customs?
We have attempted something rather unique this time in an effort to bring power to our newly constructed home. A complete mobile solar array has been packed into one of our suitcases in hope that the conglomeration of wires, switches, charge controller, transformer, etc. will not raise a red flag with security and safely make its way to our mud block home. What happens as we pass through customs is an entirely different and potentially costly matter. The suitcase’s first encounter with security in Florida went well, but it did not escape unscathed. Apparently a red flag was raised and the suitcase was opened. In the process, one of the fasteners was ripped off entirely most likely by a frustrated TSA official who didn’t understand the intricacies in opening my second-hand suitcase from the local Goodwill store. Its second pass through Paris required a rather amateur tape job where the fastener used to hold the right side together. We broke down and decided to go ahead with one of these new fancy plastic wrap jobs you can have done by a vendor near the check-in counter. For $10 your suitcase becomes invincible to dangers that await it as it is tossed from one luggage trolley to the next. Of course its one weakness is the TSA official that doesn’t care if you spent that money to protect your suitcase and its contents. We hope our wrap was not applied in vain.
We are now entering our third day of travel after departing on Saturday from the Savoie region of France after spending about a month in an intensive language and cheese study. It remains a mystery to us as to how the French manage to stay so skinny as we certainly did not. As our French host family put it, we must be like the marmot, which has only a few weeks to put on enough weight to get through the subsequent hard months ahead. The statement reminded me how easy it was to lose fifteen pounds when I had malaria last time and served as a wonderful motivator to explore the world of French cuisine. Of course we offered up some American recipes, especially over Thanksgiving when we introduced our host family to the art of overindulging during this American holiday.
The French TGV (train de grande vitesse), a high-speed train network, is a work of art fit for the Louvre museum. We spent much of Saturday traveling on this super fast and super smooth rail system. I always have a sense of despair for our nation’s public transport system when I enjoy the ease and comfort of train travel across the French countryside. Whether traveling to a major metropolis or a quaint European town, this mode of transport offers an affordable and scenic option. The only aspect of this type of travel is the rather uncomfortable and unexpected silence that tends to be a characteristic of public transport in France. Our experience has always been that the French love to talk in private settings but don’t do so in public ones (please forgive my stereotypes). If you enjoy peace and quiet during your travels, then this mode of transport will appeal that much more to you. And in case you’re wondering, I received no payment from the French rail system for this little plug.
I would have to say that our voyage adventures probably began before our trek back to Paris to catch our flight to Cameroon. You see, there are certain items that may only be needs rather than necessities, but life is exponentially better when you have them in an environment that is a bit foreign to your own. In my case, as you may recall, that item is coffee. Fortunately, this has been one luxury that is easily provided for in Cameroon. In fact, the Arabica and Robusta coffee that comes from the mountainous Northwest Region of Cameroon is some of the best I’ve ever had. With the foresight of sending a French press to eliminate the need for an electric coffee pot, this precious nectar is one I can enjoy on a daily basis and experience the sensation that all is right in the world.
For my wife, this particular item is slightly more complicated – hot water. More specifically, her exotic craving is a hot shower (please note my sarcasm here). Although it may seem like a trivial matter, it certainly is not in a part of the world where your water comes from a mountain by your house and the means to heat it is not as simple as hooking up the ‘ol electric water heater. For us, an electric water heater is not an option. However, a butane gas water heater is a possibility. During the course of my research as part of an effort to make my wife happy like all good husbands strive to do, I learned that a gas water heater was nowhere to be found in Cameroon and would most likely have to be imported (i.e. carried over) from Europe. That’s when the real fun began.
With only a week remaining before our departure from France, I began a mad scramble to locate one. I thought that perhaps this was a common item for the eco-conscience French, but I discovered the item to be a bit more exotic than expected. An intensive internet search in French turned up some on-line distributors that could have a gas water heater, or chauffe-eau, shipped within a day. Without further ado, my wife’s happiness was placed on order, and I sat back with a sense of satisfaction that I would not have to purchase a birthday, anniversary or Christmas gift for a long time (just kidding).
The call we received the next day from the transporter indicating that they had broken down and would need us to pick the item ourselves was a sign of things to come. Upon opening the package, we discovered the item had been fabricated in Spain. This wasn’t what troubled me, though; it was the fact that everything was in Spanish and none of the pictures or specifications seemed to match our particular model. Besides our uncertainty on how to start the heater once the gas was connected, I wasn’t even sure which hose was for hot water and which was for cold. Of course this came as terrible blow to my engineering ego, but in time we started to figure out what went where and how to make it work. The good news was that it seemed to be exactly what we needed – small, portable, butane-operated. The ba d news was that the gas connection was not complete and required an additional part to attach the hose to the unit that required some welding to the existing, non-threaded pipe. This fact put in motion another mad scramble to find a welder and the right parts to complete the unit. I was already starting to feel like we were in Africa, where what was once a simple task can become an all-out catastrophe. Our real challenge still lied ahead.
Getting the water heater was only step one of the process. The second step required us getting it there. It was readily apparent that the unit was not going to survive the trials endured by checked luggage. Fortunately it was small to become our final carry-on. And what’s the trouble with this, you may ask. You guessed it – security. The water heater is equipped with an electronic ignition system much like your Bar-B-Q that does not lend itself to passing a security check in light of recent events. This proved to be the case as we were pulled aside by the Paris security folks to further examine the contents of our carry-on. I was surprised when they told me that I couldn’t bring it on not because of the unusual nature of the item but because it was too heavy and could injure someone if it fell out of the overhead compartment. Now I didn’t want to inform them that both of our backpacks were over the allowable weight, but I certainly wasn’t going to let that be the excuse for not allowing us to take on this precious cargo. In broken French, I began my rebuttal, which ushered in a new wave of security personnel higher up the food chain than my original encounter. After a more detailed explanation of our work in Cameroon, the nature of the equipment and my wife’s happiness, we were allowed to continue with the water heater. These are the moments I remember all those prayers many of your have said for us during our travels.
While sitting at the boarding gate for our leg to Casablanca Morocco, Tiffany pointed out that my shipping papers were no longer attached to the box. This was rather unfortunate because the final security check of the water heater ended with the man saying, “Hold on to these papers for the next security check.” I was filled with a sense of despair as the realization hit that the battle may be over. I knew that if I registered the heater at the next stop as a checked bag, it would never survive the flight. I also knew that security has already shown me about all the mercy I could probably expect. I made a mad dash down the hallway and retraced all our steps in hope that the papers would be waiting for me where they had been abandoned. This, however, was not the case. I raced back to the gate to catch our delayed flight and wondered what would become of our water heater and my wife’s happiness. The water heater had already shown its ability to affect the happiness of others as mine took a terrible turn for the worse.
Our hour and a half delay made it very likely we were going to miss our connecting flight in Casablanca, where we only had an hour and fifty minutes to catch the flight to Yaoundé. This brought a new dilemma to the table – the fate of our baby stroller. It had served us well, but we realized that if we tried to wait for it when we landed in Morocco, it would likely prevent us from reaching the connecting flight if there was any hope of doing so. Upon arriving, it was apparent that the stroller was not going to arrive any time soon, and we made the decision to abandon it. This turned out to be the right decision for several reasons. First, it gave Tiffany the opportunity to begin putting her baby sling skills into full effect as she tied Chloe to her with the wrap provided by one of our friends prior to our departure. Second, it allowed us to make our flight that certainly would have been missed if we had waited. A mad dash to the gate put us there during the last boarding call.
Now you’re probably wondering what became of the water heater as I ventured off on that tangent. Well, it turns out that Moroccan security tended to be a little lighter than anywhere we’ve encountered. Perhaps this was due to the fact that everyone in line was coming off a flight and transferring to another. Perhaps it had to do with us being back in Africa. Or perhaps a small miracle was at work. I think it had a little to do with all of these. Nevertheless, there was no inspection of any bags or boxes. We were home free! The water heater now resides peacefully in the overhead compartment along with my wife’s happiness.